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Climbing shoes: how to choose them? Which chalk to choose for climbing or mountaineering? How to choose your climbing or mountaineering harness? Which climbing or mountaineering rope to choose? How to choose your climbing carabiners? How to choose your climbing quickdraws? When to change your climbing and mountaineering equipment?
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HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR CLIMBING QUICKDRAWS?

In the climbing equipment series: the quickdraws! We explain how to choose your climbing quickdraws, an essential element to secure your climbs.

How do quickdraws work?

A climbing quickdraw is made up of two progression carabiners connected to each other by a short strap. Each of these carabiners has a specific use, one is loose on the strap and the other is fixed on the strap. During his ascent, the climber will thus secure his route by attaching the free carabiner to an anchoring point on the wall, before pressing the rope on the hollow of the finger of the one who is fixed and clip it. In the event of a fall, he is thus retained by the last quickdraw he placed.

Good to know: why two types of opening for climbing quickdraws?

In climbing, the maneuverability of the equipment is essential: we must not forget that, most of the time, we do everything with one hand! The straight carabiner thus allows an easier grip for the attachment point, while the elbow facilitates the attachment of the rope and allows, thanks to its larger opening, to pass two ropes if necessary.

Choose your climbing quickdraws: full gate or wire carabiners?

There are two types of closures for the progression carabiners found on climbing quickdraws, whether for straight or angled models:

  • Classic carabiner (full gate): like the safety carabiners, it has a spring system that allows it to be opened very easily and to automatically engage the closing. It is also called a "keylock", which allows it to be released without too much trouble, even at arm's length. It is generally heavier than the wire carabiner.
  • Wire carabiner: the gate is not full, but made up of thin metal rods. It is light, but also more resistant than its tube counterpart. In addition, it limits the whiplash effect that can be caused by opening a carabiner in the event of a fall.

The climbing quickdraws can be equipped with two carabiners with similar openings, or offer a full gate with a keylock system for anchoring and another with wire for the rope. This mixed system is a good way to have a quick draw at a reasonable weight while benefiting from the keylock system.

Weight is a key factor in your evolution in climbing, which is why it is important to choose a climbing quickdraw that is suitable for your practice. If you are more into sport climbing, you will be interested in handling above all, so the 90 grams of a tubular carabiner quickdraw will not bother you. On the other hand, if you practice mountaineering or multi-pitch climbing, choose quickdraws with wire carabiners weighing between 55 and 90 grams.

What strap length for your climbing quickdraw?

When you choose your climbing quickdraw, you have to find the right strap length to move comfortably and limit rope movements. Standard sizes are 10-12cm, 17cm, or even 25cm. The choice of the length of your climbing quickdraw will depend on the location of the protection points. Up to a certain level, short climbing quickdraws are more than sufficient, but to avoid the draw in certain passages it may be a good idea to opt for a longer quickdraw.

For sport climbing, nylon models will be sufficient. For multi-pitch routes, choose a quickdraw with a Dyneema strap, a light and resistant material that is also available as an adjustable strap. This allows you to adjust your quickdraw to any difficulty.

GOOD TO KNOW: CAPTIVE STRAPS TO SATY ON TRACK

The strap of the quickdraws is usually connected to the body of the carabiners, but there is also a captive strap system which encloses the two ends in a compartment below each clip. This prevents it from moving and ensures an upright position of the carabiner.

Whether for sport climbing, multi-pitch or mountaineering, quickdraws are essential. To choose your climbing quickdraws, remember to focus on the carabiner system to find the right compromise between lightness and maneuverability , but also on the strap which affects the weight of your equipment as well as your comfort.

THE THREE KEY POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN CHOOSING YOUR CLIMBING QUICKDRAWS:

  1. A climbing quickdraw consists of a strap and two carabiners, the type of opening you can choose from.
  2. If you are more of a sports climbing kind of person, your choice of climbing quickdraws will be oriented towards easy/handy models, while weight will be the main selection criterion for mountaineering or large way.
  3. The keylock system of the full gate carabiners allows easier release of the anchor point.
Climbing equipment