WHICH CLIMBING OR MOUNTAINEERING ROPE TO CHOOSE?

Do you think nothing looks more like a rope than another rope? Well think again, you will be surprised how diverse the offer is. To know which climbing or mountaineering rope to choose, follow our tips!

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The different types of climbing and mountaineering ropes

There are three types of climbing ropes:

• The single rope: it has only one strand of rope. It can display a very thin diameter (and is therefore a light strand) such as 8.9 mm and go up to 10.5 mm. This model is recommended for indoor or "sport" climbing. The thinner it is, the more dedicated to the hands of expert climbers it will be.
• The double rope: these are two strands of ropes of different colors that can be used alternately to limit the pulling or for a steep ascent, that is to say with a leader and 2 seconds distributed over the strands. Also, if one strand of rope breaks, the other takes over. It is advisable to choose a double climbing rope in the mountains or on multi-pitch routes since it allows abseiling. It is also the type of rope recommended for mountaineering in icy environments, it can be attached to the anchor point, which can be done on one strand, which will limit the impact force.
• The twin rope: also made up of 2 strands, but must not be used on 1 single strand. Both parts should always be attached to the carabiners together. It is mainly used on multi-pitch routes, mountaineering or for hiking.

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Choosing your climbing rope: which technology to turn to?

There are different ways to make ropes. The oldest combines a core (center of the strand of rope) with a colored sheath. The inside of a climbing rope is called the core, it is made of nylon filaments. As for the outer part, it is a sheath made up of many solidly braided and colored threads. The sheath plays an essential role in the resistance to friction and air.

The more the core occupies a large part of the diameter, the more dynamic the rope will be. The larger the sheath, the more resistant the rope will be. But it sometimes happens that when crossing a sharp edge, the sheath is severed: it can then end up sliding along the core and causing a fall. Another phenomenon observed: the loosening of the sheath, which ends up being longer than the core, which alters the rigidity of the strand of rope. But since the birth of technical ropes, many technologies have emerged.

The first technology you may encounter when choosing your climbing or mountaineering rope is the unicore developed by Beal. Unicore is the best known and most widely used technology. The core and the sheath are here joined together, which reinforces their resistance.

There is also Edelrid's Swift Protect Pro Dry technology, a single dynamic rope benefiting from cut protection thanks to high resistance aramid fibers which are integrated into the sheath during braiding.

The third technology you may encounter when choosing a climbing or mountaineering rope is Millet's Triaxial Technology. It makes it possible to have ropes equipped with an ultra-practical flat folding method: no knots, no painful unfolding before the first use and no stranded rope afterwards.

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The criteria to take into account to know which climbing or mountaineering rope to choose

To choose your climbing or mountaineering rope, you have to check several aspects:

The diameter

Beyond 9 mm, a rope (single or double) is considered to be thick. This is the category you should go for if you are new to rock climbing, as they are not only resistant, but also allow good braking because they are well retained by the belay systems. On the other hand, they are rather heavy, which is why, when you reach an intermediate level, you will quickly feel the need to switch to thinner ropes, especially in multi-pitch where equipment that is too heavy can quickly hinder you. Remember to check that the diameter of your rope is compatible with your belay system.

The length of rope

It will depend on your practice, but also on the place where you climb. For sport climbing, a rope length of 70 to 80 meters is recommended. But if you practice indoors or on a cliff, no need to encumber yourself with all this, 50 or even 40 meters can be more than enough. The classic double rope length is 50 meters, although the 60-meter models can have their advantages, such as cutting the worn ends and still benefiting from a length long enough for rocky mountaineering trips or on multi-pitch routes.

The weight

If indoors you can afford not to be too careful about the weight of your equipment, for mountaineering and multi-pitch it is better to choose a light climbing rope, because every gram counts. Single ropes generally weigh between 55 and 70 g per meter, and double ropes between 40 and 50 g per meter per strand.

The impact force

This measurement indicates the force that will be transmitted to the climber in the event of a fall. It is calculated in the laboratory taking into account a certain length of rope and a certain height. The lower the indicated impact force, the more the shock will be absorbed by the rope. This figure allows above all to compare the models of the same category because, in reality, in the event of a fall, the belay device and the harness will also absorb the force of the impact.

The number of falls

This is the number of factor 2 falls that the rope can withstand and which is established thanks to Standard EN 892. To put it simply, a single rope carrying 80 kg on one strand must withstand 5 successive falls (fall factor = 1.77). For twin ropes, the test is carried out with 80 kg on two strands and they must withstand 12 successive drops. Finally, the double ropes are tested with 55 kg on a strand of rope and they must withstand the shock on 5 falls at least. In addition, for single and twin ropes, the force experienced by the climber must not be more than 12 kN. For double ropes, the value to be respected is 8 kN.

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Choose your climbing or mountaineering rope according to your practice

Find the right climbing or mountaineering rope for your practice:

Indoor climbing

• Single rope
• Rope length: wall height x 2
• Diameter: at least 10 mm and a reinforced sheath to withstand a reel use.

Outdoor "sport" climbing

• Single rope
• Rope length: 70 to 80 metres
• Rope diameter: between 9mm and 10.2mm, thinner for expert climbers.

Multi-pitch route and rocky mountaineering

• Double rope
• Rope length: 50 to 60 metres
• Rope diameter: between 8 and 9 mm. The thinner it is, the more your material will be light, but also more delicate to use and less resistant.

Icefall climbing

• Double rope
• Rope length: 60 metres
• Rope diameter: between 8 and 9 mm, but above all it will require a hydrophobic treatment.

Now that you have all the information to choose your climbing or mountaineering rope, all you have to do is go train!