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HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR CLIMBING CARABINERS?

Between the different types, shapes and locking systems, it's not easy to choose your climbing carabiners. We help you see more clearly to find your climbing companions.

Safety or progression carabiners?

There are two different types of carabiners. Firstly, there are those known as progression carabiners, which will accompany you on your ascent. They can be found on quickdraws, but also on climbing stoppers. These are the ones that will hold you in case of a fall. Then there are those known as safety ones, which have a locking system at the finger level that will secure their closure. These models are used for via ferrata, relay, belaying, or abseiling.

GOOD TO KNOW: CLASSIC FINGER CARABINER OR WIRE CARABINER?

For progression carabiners, you'll have a choice of two types of closure. The first, known as classic, with a tube, is combined with a Keylock system that allows it to be easily detached from belay points for example. The second, with a wire, is said to be a stronger carabiner while offering lightness to high route and mountaineering enthusiasts.

What shape of climbing carabiner to choose

To find your way around a wide range of products, it is important to know what shape you are looking for before choosing your climbing carabiners.

Progression carabiners:

  • Straight finger carabiner: this is the one that will allow you to easily hang on to the progression points located on your route.
  • Carabiner with angled finger: this model is recommended for easy rope clipping.

Safety carabiners:

  • D carabiner: combines a good finger opening with optimal strength. This type is often chosen for belaying devices.
  • HMS (pear-shaped) carabiner: 'HMS' stands for 'Half Middle Snap'. It is more flared at the top and slightly flattened which gives it a very large opening that can accommodate capstan or half-capstan knots, or even two strands of rope.
  • Symmetrical carabiner: the oval of this design is almost perfect and the finger is parallel to the opposite side of the body. This is a type of strong carabiner that, unlike an HMS carabiner, easily flips into the anchor point if needed.
  • K-Type carabiner: this is a model reserved for via ferrata. It can have an unlocking system that is activated by the palm of the hand while the index finger releases it from the anchor point, or have a sliding ring. For your safety in via ferrata, it is very important to use specific carabiners.

Each safety carabiner is furthermore equipped with a locking system which varies according to the model.

What locking system should you choose for your climbing carabiners?

To ensure that the finger is perfectly held in the body of the carabiner, safety models are equipped with a locking system that is more or less suitable for all situations. Here are the different options you have for choosing your climbing carabiners:

  • Screw: this is the most common locking system, but also the most versatile. It is very handy, even with gloves, and can even be fitted with a coloured indicator to help you see if your carabiner is perfectly closed.
  • Ferrule carabiner: the safety ring has a notch for opening and a notch for closing, but is rare.
  • The twist locking/automatic carabiner: it takes 2 or 3 movements to successfully open this locking system. Sometimes it is even necessary to press a button to engage the opening. This model is certainly not easy to handle, but it has the advantage of offering an automatic closing of the ring and a maximum security in case of use with children, who will not be able to operate the opening by accident even while playing with the carabiner.

All locking systems ensure maximum safety provided you remember to operate them! Please note that, depending on the brand, you can find safety carabiners that offer other finger securing technologies. To make your choice, simply opt for the one that seems easiest to use. And don't forget to test with one hand only!

GOOD TO KNOW: STANDARDS TO MEET

When making your choice of carabiners for climbing, make sure the models you want meet the 12275 standard, which states that they must resist a load of 2 tonnes (20 kN) in the long axis when the finger is closed, and 7 kN in the short axis (between the finger and the opposite part of the body). For via ferrata, the strength of the carabiner is increased to 25 kN.

It's impossible to do without carabiners when you start climbing. But to be well equipped, it is necessary to understand the diversity of the offer and the specificities of each model. This is the only way to choose climbing carabiners that will ensure you progress safely.

THE THREE KEY POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN CHOOSING YOUR CLIMBING CARABINERS:

  1. There are two types of carabiners: the so-called progression carabiners and the safety carabiners
  2. Safety carabiners are always equipped with a locking system
  3. Before choosing your carabiners for climbing, make sure they are easy to handle
Climbing carabiners